It all begins with an idea.I had this braised chicken at Campo Fina in Healdsburg, and in that moment I knew two things: I would never be the same, and I would need to eat it again immediately. So naturally, I went looking for its origins in Northern Italy, eating my way through trattoria after trattoria in the name of research. Then I came home and started making my own version.

There are two secrets to getting it right.

First, use an absolutely unreasonable amount of onion and garlic. No, more than that. Cook them low and slow until they collapse into something sweet and jammy that holds the whole dish together. Fair warning: this is not date-night chicken. This is nobody-is-kissing-anybody chicken, and it’s worth it.

Second, use real San Marzano tomatoes, for goodness’ sake. Mine come straight from the garden, picked at their peak and simmered until the kitchen smells like late summer. If you’re not growing your own, buy a good can, look for the DOP label, and skip the sad, watery stuff.

Serve it with crusty bread for mopping, because there will be sauce, and leaving any behind would be a crime against Italy.

It all begins with an idea.